The BBQ
Glossary

The standard ordering format at most Central Texas BBQ joints: meat ordered by the pound, served on butcher paper on a cafeteria-style tray, with sides in separate containers. No plates, no frills. The tray format emphasizes the meat star of the show.

The facial muscles of a beef steer — heavily worked muscles with intense collagen content. When smoked low and slow, the collagen converts to gelatin, creating a silky, intensely flavored meat. LeRoy and Lewis has made beef cheeks an Austin BBQ staple.

The pectoral muscle of a beef steer, consisting of the flat (leaner) and the point (fattier). The flat slices cleanly; the point has more intramuscular fat and is used for burnt ends in KC-style BBQ. In Central Texas, the whole packer brisket is cooked single piece and sliced to order.

The leaner half of the brisket, also called the "first cut." It slices cleanly and is the preferred cut for those who want a more uniform texture. Requires careful cooking to prevent drying out.

The fattier, more marbled half of the brisket, also called the "second cut" or "deckle." More forgiving to cook than the flat. In Kansas City, the point is cubed and re-smoked to make burnt ends.

Originally a Kansas City specialty — the fatty, caramelized cubes cut from the brisket point. In Austin, the term is used more loosely to describe any heavily charred, intensely flavored pieces from the edges of a brisket. Not a traditional Central Texas item.

Unbleached kraft paper used to wrap brisket during the stall. Unlike foil, butcher paper allows some moisture to escape while still retaining heat, resulting in a firmer bark than foil-wrapped brisket. Aaron Franklin popularized its use and it's now standard practice at most top Austin pits.

The BBQ tradition of the Texas Hill Country and surrounding areas, characterized by minimal seasoning (salt and pepper only), post-oak smoke, and beef primary protein. The tradition traces back to German and Czech immigrant butchers in the late 19th century who began smoking unsold meat.

Another name for the salt-and-pepper rub used in Central Texas BBQ, named for the black-and-white spotted appearance of the seasoning on the meat. Aaron Franklin uses a dalmatian rub on his brisket.

The layer of fat on the exterior of a brisket. Some pitmasters trim the fat cap to 1/4 inch before cooking; others leave it thicker. The fat cap bastes the meat during cooking and contributes to bark formation. The rendered fat from a well-cooked brisket is one of the great pleasures of Texas BBQ.

A Czech pastry stuffed with various fillings, deeply rooted in Central Texas's Czech immigrant heritage. In the BBQ context, kolaches stuffed with smoked meat (particularly at Kerlin BBQ) represent a creative fusion of two Central Texas food traditions — Czech baking and pit smoking.

The origin of Central Texas BBQ lies in 19th-century German and Czech meat markets in towns like Lockhart, Taylor, and Elgin. Butchers smoked unsold meat to preserve it, then began selling it as a prepared food. Kreuz Market, Smitty's Market, and Louie Mueller all descend directly from this meat market tradition.

The wood most associated with West Texas and South Texas BBQ. Burns extremely hot and produces an intense, slightly bitter smoke. Not commonly used in Central Texas BBQ, where post oak is preferred. Mesquite is better suited for grilling than long, slow smoking.

The belief, held by many Central Texas BBQ purists, that good BBQ needs no sauce — and that adding sauce is an insult to the quality of the meat and the skill of the pitmaster. At Franklin Barbecue, sauce is available but rarely used by regulars. The no-sauce philosophy is a point of pride in Central Texas.

A whole, untrimmed brisket containing both the flat and the point, typically weighing 12–18 pounds. The "packer" refers to the way it's packaged by the processor. Central Texas pitmasters cook packer briskets whole, then separate the flat and point for slicing.

A mild, slightly sweet wood used in some Texas BBQ, particularly in East Texas and for poultry. Produces a lighter smoke than post oak. Some Austin pitmasters blend pecan with post oak for a more complex smoke profile.

The person responsible for operating the smoker and cooking the meat. In the Central Texas tradition, the pitmaster is the central figure of the restaurant — often the owner, always the most important person in the operation. The title carries significant weight in Texas BBQ culture.

Also called "dino ribs" or "brontosaurus bones." These are the beef short ribs from the plate primal — three bones, each weighing up to a pound. The most dramatic presentation in Texas BBQ. La Barbecue's version is considered among the state's best.

The defining wood of Central Texas BBQ. Post oak (Quercus stellata) burns clean and hot, producing a mild, slightly sweet smoke that complements beef without overpowering it. It's abundant in the Texas Hill Country and has been the wood of choice for Central Texas pitmasters for generations. Franklin Barbecue uses exclusively post oak.

The canonical Central Texas BBQ seasoning: coarse kosher salt and coarse black pepper, applied liberally to the meat before cooking. Some pitmasters add a small amount of cayenne or garlic powder, but the purist approach is salt and pepper only. The simplicity is intentional — it lets the quality of the meat and smoke speak for itself.

The moment when a BBQ restaurant runs out of meat for the day and closes. At top Austin spots like Franklin Barbecue, selling out by early afternoon is a daily occurrence. Arriving after sell-out means going hungry. Checking social media for sell-out announcements is a standard Austin BBQ practice.

A large, lean cut from the shoulder of a beef steer, weighing 15–20 pounds. Rarely seen outside of old-school Lockhart joints, shoulder clod is a Kreuz Market specialty. It requires careful cooking to avoid drying out, but when done right, it has a beefy flavor that rivals brisket.

The depth to which smoke flavor has infused the meat during cooking. Deep smoke penetration results in a pronounced smoke flavor throughout the meat, not just on the surface. Achieved through long cook times, consistent smoke production, and proper airflow management.

Pork ribs from the belly side of the pig, longer and meatier than baby backs. In Texas, spare ribs are often cooked St. Louis-style (trimmed to a rectangle) or full rack. Less common than beef in Central Texas BBQ.

The practice of wrapping meat in butcher paper or aluminum foil during the cook to push through the stall and retain moisture. Butcher paper (preferred by most Central Texas pitmasters) allows some breathability; foil creates a tighter seal. Aaron Franklin popularized the butcher paper wrap.

The queue that forms before opening at Austin's most popular BBQ spots. At Franklin Barbecue, the line can start forming before dawn for weekend visits. The line is both a practical reality and a cultural ritual — a place to meet fellow BBQ enthusiasts and build anticipation.

A phenomenon during long cooks where the internal temperature of the meat plateaus — typically around 150–160°F — for several hours. Caused by evaporative cooling leaves the meat. Pitmasters can push through the stall by wrapping the meat in butcher paper or foil (the "Texas Crutch").